Chain stitch at Son of a Stag

Living in Tokyo, it was easy to find a tailor who can shorten hems on selvedge-denim jeans and re-finish them with a proper chain-stitch machine. Along with the selvedge, chain stitching recalls an era when denim wasn’t mass produced; these days it’s a sign of a well-made “vintage” pair. Now that we’re back in London, I visited Son of a Stag at the Old Truman Brewery to get two pairs of selvedge jeans shortened. They sell a range of Japanese denim, including Momotaro from premium denim capital Ookayama, and they have several chain stitching machines – the sewing equivalent of gold dust in Europe. Needles to say (sic) they did a sterling job, and the A.P.C. pair came out better than their original state. Chatted with the owner about Buddy Lee, the Lee Jeans mascot. He has many; I have one from when I worked at the Lee store on Carnaby Street.

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3 responses to “Chain stitch at Son of a Stag

  1. mine wound up a mess: I went along to have my jeans done and they don’ t look good.

    the chain stitch join is meant to be on the selvedge line- as yours is in the image- I now have the behind on the left leg and in front on the right leg.

    the hem is uneven too- really not what you’d expect from a specialist

    http://hypebeast.com/2012/03/process-hemming-denim-with-a-union-special-by-self-edge/

  2. That’s too bad. Maybe it was a different guy to the one that did my pairs? The machines are hard to obtain but I guess simply owning one doesn’t guarantee a good job will be done – the person using it needs a bit of skill!

  3. Mackenzie, could you post pictures of your supposed uneven hem as I have seen there machines and they have a special adapter on it which means that it can not be uneven if they tried to make it so – I am really puzzled – pictures please. The chain stitch is actually not supposed to be on the selvage line -in fact it is easier to do it on the selvage line and therefore I think you got a better job than you realise.
    I have had some original Levis and Lee jeans done by these guys and watched whilst the owner whizzed these through – best jobs I have ever seen. In fact i was recommended to go to them by my buddy from the states who is a real denim geek and always sings son of a stags praises and visits them every time he is in London.
    I just wonder how much you know about denim as these boys are untouchable when it comes to denim. I suggest you go back and have a chat with them as it is bad form if you are crucifying them whilst not knowing what is right or wrong ???? Think you owe it to them to see what is what before going on air slating them as they are a superb crowd who can not do enough for their customers.
    Ask for Rudy who is owner in case you need help as he mind blowingly knowledged about denim and work for different brands plus he is a superb guy. His team are ace too – especially the tall German girl who works there.

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